Slipper clutch question

[t84a]

I still don't think you would notice a difference on acceleration.

Yeah I agree Ken , its more for catching downshifts and not upsetting the rear tire if the rpms are high.
but you can rev match with a non-slipper clutch and you can catch super smooth down-shifts and a slipper is not needed in our bikes!

I still think the best route is too swap out the clutch basket and guts and go with the Barnett pressure plate and gold springs with oem steels and fibers... Then it will not slip at all !

If I understand Dave correctly, I'm with him. I'd bag the slipper clutch.

[RoadStarRaider]

[fingertight]

I still don't think you would notice a difference on acceleration.

Yeah I agree Ken , its more for catching downshifts and not upsetting the rear tire if the rpms are high.
but you can rev match with a non-slipper clutch and you can catch super smooth down-shifts and a slipper is not needed in our bikes!

I still think the best route is too swap out the clutch basket and guts and go with the Barnett pressure plate and gold springs with oem steels and fibers... Then it will not slip at all !

Dave is right.  A slipper clutch has nothing to do with acceleration.  It's mechanical and slips in the downshift only so that you don't lock up the rear tire when downshifting from high RPMs.  Race bikes use them and I'm pretty sure they're not getting slippage when accelerating.    If Yamaha has some weird system that does slip, it's likely not related to the slipper clutch itself, at least not in its pure sense or purpose.  I have always thought the clutch on the Raider is weak.  Throw an extra 10 horses and 15/20 lbs. of torque at it and it' even weaker.  JMO.

As the first Ivanized 2.0 Raider, he recommended to me when I did the re-flash that I install the Barnett plate and gold springs with oem steels and fibers.  He, like Dave, said there will be no slip once I do that.  I got the parts, need to install them.  Expecting an even faster Raider.   

[MyRaider]

I still don't think you would notice a difference on acceleration.

Yeah I agree Ken , its more for catching downshifts and not upsetting the rear tire if the rpms are high.
but you can rev match with a non-slipper clutch and you can catch super smooth down-shifts and a slipper is not needed in our bikes!

I still think the best route is too swap out the clutch basket and guts and go with the Barnett pressure plate and gold springs with oem steels and fibers... Then it will not slip at all !

Dave is right.  A slipper clutch has nothing to do with acceleration.  It's mechanical and slips in the downshift only so that you don't lock up the rear tire when downshifting from high RPMs.  Race bikes use them and I'm pretty sure they're not getting slippage when accelerating.    If Yamaha has some weird system that does slip, it's likely not related to the slipper clutch itself, at least not in it's pure sense or purpose.  I have always thought the clutch on the Raider is weak.  Throw an extra 10 horses and 15/20 lbs. of torque at it and it' even weaker.  JMO.

As the first Ivanized 2.0 Raider, he recommended to me when I did the re-flash that I install the Barnett plate and gold springs with oem steels and fibers.  He, like Dave, said there will be no slip once I do that.  I got the parts, need to install them.  Expecting an even faster Raider.   

Finger, what year is your Raider?

[t84a]

Is there a "how to" for the Barnett upgrade for the standard Raider clutches?  Dave, are you coming to help me do it? 

[ROADKILL]

This is a little off topic but the Can Am Spyder with the semi-auto trans won't let you upshift until you reach a certain rpm (3,000) - if you let it it will downshift automatically when you reach a certain rpm (2,000 rpm) when it does it blips the throttle back up to 2,500 rpm -- but I can down shift anytime I want at any rpm   
Okay back to the regular scheduled program 

[fingertight]

I still don't think you would notice a difference on acceleration.

Yeah I agree Ken , its more for catching downshifts and not upsetting the rear tire if the rpms are high.
but you can rev match with a non-slipper clutch and you can catch super smooth down-shifts and a slipper is not needed in our bikes!

I still think the best route is too swap out the clutch basket and guts and go with the Barnett pressure plate and gold springs with oem steels and fibers... Then it will not slip at all !

Dave is right.  A slipper clutch has nothing to do with acceleration.  It's mechanical and slips in the downshift only so that you don't lock up the rear tire when downshifting from high RPMs.  Race bikes use them and I'm pretty sure they're not getting slippage when accelerating.    If Yamaha has some weird system that does slip, it's likely not related to the slipper clutch itself, at least not in it's pure sense or purpose.  I have always thought the clutch on the Raider is weak.  Throw an extra 10 horses and 15/20 lbs. of torque at it and it' even weaker.  JMO.

As the first Ivanized 2.0 Raider, he recommended to me when I did the re-flash that I install the Barnett plate and gold springs with oem steels and fibers.  He, like Dave, said there will be no slip once I do that.  I got the parts, need to install them.  Expecting an even faster Raider.   

Finger, what year is your Raider?

2008 I don't have a slipper clutch but it does slip.

[Ares X]

Is there a "how to" for the Barnett upgrade for the standard Raider clutches?  Dave, are you coming to help me do it? 

Yes, there is.

https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=11239.0

[fingertight]

This is a little off topic but the Can Am Spyder with the semi-auto trans won't let you upshift until you reach a certain rpm (3,000) - if you let it it will downshift automatically when you reach a certain rpm (2,000 rpm) when it does it blips the throttle back up to 2,500 rpm -- but I can down shift anytime I want at any rpm   
Okay back to the regular scheduled program 

Throttle blippers are great for downshifting and would have a slipper clutch to go with them.  It blips the throttle so the R's match the gear and slips until it is safe to be fully engaged, or something to that effect.  And that is the idea behind the slipper clutch.  You can downshift anytime with no wheel lock up.  Without out one you have to slip it yourself.  Some of us, who don't have a slipper, may have accidentally just downshifted...no names will be mentioned...and learned real quick you have to do that.     

[t84a]

Is there a "how to" for the Barnett upgrade for the standard Raider clutches?  Dave, are you coming to help me do it? 

Yes, there is.

https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=11239.0

Thanks. That's a great write up.  I was already to buy the stuff until I read about the oil pump failure.

[Ares X]

Is there a "how to" for the Barnett upgrade for the standard Raider clutches?  Dave, are you coming to help me do it? 

Yes, there is.

https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=11239.0

Thanks. That's a great write up.  I was already to buy the stuff until I read about the oil pump failure.

What oil pump failure?  I couldn't find it in that thread.

[t84a]

https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=12678.msg228985#msg228985

[Ares X]

https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=12678.msg228985#msg228985

I had never read that before. Thanks!

He did admit it could've been entirely his fault for the issue, but we all make mistakes and that was a pricy one.

[fingertight]

Is there a "how to" for the Barnett upgrade for the standard Raider clutches?  Dave, are you coming to help me do it? 

Yes, there is.

https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=11239.0

Thanks. That's a great write up.  I was already to buy the stuff until I read about the oil pump failure.

The wire he's taking about is really thin.  I could see, when re-using it, that you could damage it to a point where it becomes weak and breaks.  Or it just wasn't seated properly and broke loose.  Two lessons learned.  1. Always replace retaining parts if they're frail.  $10 for that wire.  Cheap.   B. Pay attention, take your time and make sure everything is how it should be.  3. Have a tech do it if you are ever in doubt about your skills.  That being said, I know I've made my share of costly mistakes.   

[Ares X]

Is there a "how to" for the Barnett upgrade for the standard Raider clutches?  Dave, are you coming to help me do it? 

Yes, there is.

https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=11239.0

Thanks. That's a great write up.  I was already to buy the stuff until I read about the oil pump failure.

The wire he's taking about is really thin.  I could see, when re-using it, that you could damage it to a point where it becomes weak and breaks.  Or it just wasn't seated properly and broke loose.  Two lessons learned.  1. Always replace retaining parts if they're frail.  $10 for that wire.  Cheap.   B. Pay attention, take your time and make sure everything is how it should be.  3. Have a tech do it if you are ever in doubt about your skills.  That being said, I know I've made my share of costly mistakes.   

Definitely!  This is what messed me up when I did a brake pad change a few months back. I was rushed and careless and popped the piston and lost all of my fluid. This time I took my time and paid attention and did all three rotors in about 20 minutes.

A good rule when both maintaining and riding motorcycles.

[Zxdave]

Is there a "how to" for the Barnett upgrade for the standard Raider clutches?  Dave, are you coming to help me do it? 

Lemme know when Ken and I'll be over !