rear rotor heatshield rubbing

[duanes7]

     Anyone have good photos of where the belt pulley hub joins the wheel? Or how far inside the wheel lip the right side oil seal is?
     I looked at the shop manual and the microfiche earlier in this discussion. Looks like clips (15 & 14) hold the bearings (12 & 13) inside the belt pulley hub (11). But anyone know what holds the belt pulley hub onto the dampeners and the dampeners in the wheel?
     Is this all held together by the distance of the axle shoulder and proper torque?

[Coldfinger]

The right side seal is flush with the hub.
Unless someone had the wheel bearings out, the  bearing spacer that goes in the middle of the hub between bearings "shouldn't" be missing and I would consider it normal to move a little when the wheel is off the bike.

However, I've never had a the wheel off this bike yet and I'm not familiar with the needle bearings they have in there.  Is it possible that the needle bearing/s were damaged at some point by overtightening the axle nut, like maybe the right side needle bearing got squished a little too much, I don't know.  Just a thought.  Did the axle show any signs of wear in that point? (I just looked at the diagram and it appears that the needle bearings are on the drive side of the hub so probably couldn't be a needle bearing issue because the wheel would shift to the left if anything?)

It does concern me that you can torque the nut correctly and there is added friction to the bearings.  The spacer in the middle goes between the bearings and the inner races on all my other bikes.

[duanes7]

     Have driven the bike maybe 15 miles and the space I made up yesterday is already gone. The bolts for the rotor are starting to hit the inside of the caliper bracket.
     Last night the seal was pushed maybe 1/8 inch in and now it's 1/4. Either the wheel is shifting to the right on the bearings and everything or when I apply the rear brakes the pressure against the rotor is shoving the bracket inward and right side bearing is sliding in.
     If the entire wheel is sliding then I'm going to have to get it trailered home. Afraid that at some point I think the belt pulley hub and dampeners will start to come out the left side of the wheel. If its just the rotor side pulley, I can probably undo the rear brake lever and get it home.
     The axle looked good- no scoring or any evidence of bearings spinning.

 I DESPERATELY NEED SOMEONE TO POST A PIC OF WHERE THE BELT PULLEY HUB INSERTS INTO THE WHEEL.

[Coldfinger]

Can't help with a pic but I can take a wild guess that if the wheel is moving to the right and the spacer is in place on the right side, then either clip #14 or 15 on the belt side is missing or not installed right allowing the wheel to move right.  The only way I can imagine the wheel being able to slide right is if the left side bearings are being worked out because the circlip/s are not in place correctly.

Those Circlips, esp#14 judging by the $5.36 price, is my bet.  The #15 is only $.98 so I wouldn't think it is as important.

[RaiderRick]

Here's one of each side.

[Capt_Zoom]

If its the bearings just install new one's.  Its not that difficult.  Actually it's usually more difficult getting the old one's out than getting the new one's in.  Harbor freight sells a cheap bearing/race install kit that works well for most bikes (haven't used mine on the raider yet).  Put your new bearings in the freezer for an hour or two and leave the wheel sitting in the sun.  THey'll go right in.

If the bearing is moving in...did part number 4 get forgotten?

To get the old one's out, on most mag wheels I'll use a large flat screw driver to move part 4 to the side a little so you can get to the inner edge of the bearing and pound it out with a rubber mallet.

[duanes7]

     Just talked to Rick and he confirmed that my spacing at the point where the pulley hub joins the wheel is fine. Thanks for the help and pics!
     To me that means that the right bearings are pushing in. Whatever the clunk internal to the wheel is why the bearing is not held in place properly and this allows the rear brake to push the bracket all the way over towards the rotor.
     I'm going to remove my temp spacer, torque the axle to spec, tie the caliper bracket to the swingarm, and disconnect the rear brake linkage so it wont get pushed back over.
     This should allow me to get it home where I can pull the wheel completely apart and see what is going on (with frequent steps to check that the bearing isn't wandering on its own). I will also install all new clips, bearings, and seals while I'm there.
     I will update this when I find what is wrong inside the wheel.

     Thanx again to everyone for the help.

[Ron505]

Please be very extra careful riding with no rear brake. 

[Coldfinger]

Also be careful that the rear wheel doesn't lock up because it's gone to far to the right.  I wouldn't go more than 55 if possible/safe to do so.  If you have the option, I'd consider calling someone with a pickup or trailer to come get you because you're only 4 hours away and it seems the problem is getting progressivly worse.  Something is moving in the hub and if you drive till failure you will cause lots of damage and possibly wreck and jeopordize yourself and the life of others.

[Coldfinger]

Go to the nearest mc repair place.

[duanes7]

Made it home. Did not undo back brakes. Figured cost less for new rotor than for eating something due to not stopping.

[Mr. T]

Made it home. Did not undo back brakes. Figured cost less for new rotor than for eating something due to not stopping.

Good news... let us know what you find

[theurbanlegend]

Made it home. Did not undo back brakes. Figured cost less for new rotor than for eating something due to not stopping.

Good news... let us know what you find

+1
This problem's got me curious.

[Ron505]

Made it home. Did not undo back brakes. Figured cost less for new rotor than for eating something due to not stopping.

Good call on that!!!   

[RaiderRick]

Made it home. Did not undo back brakes. Figured cost less for new rotor than for eating something due to not stopping.

Good to hear. Meant to send you a text earlier to see if you had.