Leaking clutch fluid...

[Sweet Tooth]

Dan,

If you do need a new slave cylinder (which I highly doubt), don't buy a used one. That's just looking for trouble. Using used hydraulic cylinders is never a good idea. A new slave cylinder will cost you about $100.00.

  Highly doubtful that your going to need a new one though. But buying used you could run into the same problem you have right now.

[Sweet Tooth]

Dan,

If you do need a new slave cylinder (which I highly doubt), don't buy a used one. That's just looking for trouble. Using used hydraulic cylinders is never a good idea. I new slave cylinder will cost you about $100.00.

I Agree with this all the way!

Me too!  I'm not buying any used parts to put on my Raider. Not mechanical parts.

I may attempt this myself.  I just need to determine what all is involved.  I would need to add towing to the cost because I have no way to get my bike to the dealer.  Unless Progressive will cover the whole trip, which they just may.

All the dealers are closed tomorrow, so I'll be doing as much research as I can to see if this is something I feel comfortable with. It will probably mean removing the exhaust, which also means two more crush gaskets.

Man!  What a pain.

Thanks everyone for the info and feel free to keep it coming.

Two exhaust gaskets. And their is two copper washers thats going to come off when you take off the clutch line from the slave cylinder. May want to replace them too while your in their. Better to be safe than put it togather and they start leaking.

[Capt_Zoom]

Doesn't look like a difficult seal to fix.  I believe that the slave pushes out when you pull the clutch....if so, When you remove the slave, hold it away from your bike, push in the slave manually (if you don't you can ruin the slave...did this on a different bike ), then pull your clutch lever.  The slave should push out without ejecting fluid.  If so your slave is likely good.

As far as buying used...Its not my favorite thing to do but I know a lot of guys who have bought 10-20 year old used slaves and they've worked great.  I figure on a 3-4 yr old raider that's been parted out due to a wreck you should be ok.  That said if you have the bank go new.

[sundancer87]

Most likely the cup in the slave cylinder collapsed which is not uncommon.  You'll want to remove the cylinder from the bike so you can inspect the bore of the cylinder and hone it if needed.

If you have a good automotive parts store near you take the cup or seal with you and see if the counter man might be able to match it up to a brake cylinder part.  Stay away from AutoZone/PepBoys and any of those places where the counter dude can't find his arse without the computer.  You want a real parts store.

If you can find the parts then either buy the correct size hone or take it to a good mechanic and have him hone the cylinder for you.  It won't hurt to hone an aluminum bore, just do it enough to break the glaze and clean it up.

Do get the copper washers for the banjo fitting and proceed to fill and bleed the system.  It's brake fluid so it'll etch your paint so be careful where it goes.

You can make that 150 dollar repair come down to 10 bucks or so if you get lucky.

[Ares X]

I know you guys said this should be easy, but some of you are mentioning parts I have never even heard of or know what you're talking about.

I need to look over a schemetic and get a feel for the parts I will need.  I'm still not sure if I want to do this or just have the dealer do it.  I do have some towing available through Progressive, but I know they have a mile limit and it's no where near 100 miles.

I also have a $50 coupon towards $250 service through an authorized dealer.  Yamaha sent it to me when I had my fuel pump replaced last time.

[Ares X]

So what caused the slave cylinder to go bad?  Or is this common on a bike with 75,000+ miles on it?

[Ares X]

Does anyone know where I can see a schematic of the Clutch Slave Cylinder?  I am looking here, but I'm only finding the clutch itself or the brake cylinders.

[Sweet Tooth]

I just found it . If you have the Pdf version of the Raider Manual. It is page 5-61 and 5-62 is what you are wanting.

[ROADKILL]

Did you remove the big rubber boot to check if the banjo bolt was tight?It shouldn't loosen by itself but who knows,maybe some jealous HD owner wanted to make himself feel better.

Check the bleed screw also

[Ares X]

Did you remove the big rubber boot to check if the banjo bolt was tight?It shouldn't loosen by itself but who knows,maybe some jealous HD owner wanted to make himself feel better.

Check the bleed screw also

I did.  It didn't look to be coming from there.

[Ares X]

I just found it . If you have the Pdf version of the Raider Manual. It is page 5-61 and 5-62 is what you are wanting.

I thought I had this on my machine at work, but all I'm finding is the Owners Manual in PDF form.

[Sweet Tooth]

I just found it . If you have the Pdf version of the Raider Manual. It is page 5-61 and 5-62 is what you are wanting.

I thought I had this on my machine at work, but all I'm finding is the Owners Manual in PDF form.

I see you just found the service manual but the firewall wont let u through. Do you know how to copy and paste the pdf to here . I dont know how or i would already done it for you.

[Ares X]

I just found it . If you have the Pdf version of the Raider Manual. It is page 5-61 and 5-62 is what you are wanting.

I thought I had this on my machine at work, but all I'm finding is the Owners Manual in PDF form.

I see you just found the service manual but the firewall wont let u through. Do you know how to copy and paste the pdf to here . I dont know how or i would already done it for you.

You can't.  All you can do is post a link to it.  Thanks though.

[t84a]

[Ares X]

t84a- THANKS!!!



So I assume the seal to replace is #4 in the second diagram.

How am I able to determine if the cylinder body is okay to continue using?