Feedback on Barnett clutch

[Ares X]

I know people say it all the time but this site is awesome!!!!! I pulled the clutch apart and things look really good in there. Just wondering if someone has the specs for the friction discs. Nothing looks burnt, and the steels look like new to me. So my thought is that the pressure plate wasn't enough after my mods and the tune. I have only put about 2k on the bike since. My local dealer has the conversion kit for 169.99

See if they'll price match the $153.95 price that Kevs UK Raider posted up.  It's about a 10% discount for them and they get the sale and you get the kit cheaper.

[RaiderRick]

I know people say it all the time but this site is awesome!!!!! I pulled the clutch apart and things look really good in there. Just wondering if someone has the specs for the friction discs. Nothing looks burnt, and the steels look like new to me. So my thought is that the pressure plate wasn't enough after my mods and the tune. I have only put about 2k on the bike since. My local dealer has the conversion kit for 169.99

Here you go.

Clutch
Clutch type Wet, multiple-disc
Clutch release method Hydraulic inner push
Operation Left hand operation
Friction plate 1, 3 thickness 2.90–3.10 mm (0.114–0.122 in)
Wear limit 2.80 mm (0.110 in)
Plate quantity 10 pcs
Friction plate 2 thickness 2.92–3.08 mm (0.115–0.121 in)
Wear limit 2.82 mm (0.111 in)
Plate quantity 1 pcs
Clutch plate thickness 1.90–2.10 mm (0.075–0.083 in)
Plate quantity 10 pcs
Warpage limit 0.20 mm (0.0079 in)
Clutch spring free length 6.78 mm (0.27 in)
Minimum length 6.28 mm (0.25 in)
Spring quantity 1 pcs
Clutch housing thrust clearance 0.100–0.110 mm (0.0039–0.0043 in)
Clutch housing radial clearance 0.020–0.066 mm (0.0008–0.0026 in)

[Rczap]

Thanks Rick, very helpful info.

[Rczap]

Ok, so I installed the Barnett spring kit, over the stock clutch plates and frictions. No extra parts and everything as it should be. Before I put the cover on I wanted to try the clutch to make sure I liked having the heavy springs in. When the lever is pulled it feels very different from stock. It is an extremely light pull until you get to just about the end then you feel a little "pop" as the clutch disengages. I can watch the pressure plate move a little as it disengages so I think everything is ok, but I wanted to check here before putting the cover on and filling it with oil. I expected a bit of pressure through the whole lever travel. Not just at the end. Can anyone verify this is how it is supposed to feel?

[bikertrsh]

As long as we're talking about clutches, I have a question. I have a 2010 Raider with only about 12k miles on it. I wouldn't say my clutch is slipping under normal conditions, but if I go to pass a car I usually downshift from 5th to 4th gear, nail it and run out the rpm's fairly high and when I shift, I do it rapidly. I back off the throttle slightly, pull the clutch, nail the throttle and shift at the same time, and this gives me the feeling that there is some slippage of the clutch before it completely grabs. Is this normal for a stock clutch setup to give some slippage between gears if you're hard on it?

[Paladin]

Ok, so I installed the Barnett spring kit, over the stock clutch plates and frictions. No extra parts and everything as it should be. Before I put the cover on I wanted to try the clutch to make sure I liked having the heavy springs in. When the lever is pulled it feels very different from stock. It is an extremely light pull until you get to just about the end then you feel a little "pop" as the clutch disengages. I can watch the pressure plate move a little as it disengages so I think everything is ok, but I wanted to check here before putting the cover on and filling it with oil. I expected a bit of pressure through the whole lever travel. Not just at the end. Can anyone verify this is how it is supposed to feel?

Somethings not right. You should have a "heavier than stock" feel throughout the clutch lever's travel, from begining to end.

[Paladin]

As long as we're talking about clutches, I have a question. I have a 2010 Raider with only about 12k miles on it. I wouldn't say my clutch is slipping under normal conditions, but if I go to pass a car I usually downshift from 5th to 4th gear, nail it and run out the rpm's fairly high and when I shift, I do it rapidly. I back off the throttle slightly, pull the clutch, nail the throttle and shift at the same time, and this gives me the feeling that there is some slippage of the clutch before it completely grabs. Is this normal for a stock clutch setup to give some slippage between gears if you're hard on it?

The slipage you feel, is caused by the RPMs of your chutch and transmission attempting to catch up with your increased engine RPMs. This is more noticable when using the stock diaphram pressure plate. Switching to the Barnett pressure plate and heavy springs should help rerduce, if not eliminate it. However, it's always best to nail the throttle a nanosecond after engaging the clutch.

[bikertrsh]

The slipage you feel, is caused by the RPMs of your chutch and transmission attempting to catch up with your increased engine RPMs. This is more noticable when using the stock diaphram pressure plate. Switching to the Barnett pressure plate and heavy springs should help rerduce, if not eliminate it. However, it's always best to nail the throttle a nanosecond after engaging the clutch.

Thanks, that makes sense. This became more noticeable when I put on the Power-Pro fuel module, Cobra pipe and BAK. I imagine the increased power from these add-ons are basically the cause of what's happening, and it would be logical to put in a better clutch system.

[Phalcun]

When the lever is pulled it feels very different from stock. It is an extremely light pull until you get to just about the end then you feel a little "pop" as the clutch disengages. I can watch the pressure plate move a little as it disengages so I think everything is ok, but I wanted to check here before putting the cover on and filling it with oil. I expected a bit of pressure through the whole lever travel.

    Did you pull clutch lever while installing clutch, if so maybe you need to bleed clutch slave, I don't know if that is what's going on with your clutch but like Paladin posted, "Somethings not right."

[Holmes]

As long as we're talking about clutches, I have a question. I have a 2010 Raider with only about 12k miles on it. I wouldn't say my clutch is slipping under normal conditions, but if I go to pass a car I usually downshift from 5th to 4th gear, nail it and run out the rpm's fairly high and when I shift, I do it rapidly. I back off the throttle slightly, pull the clutch, nail the throttle and shift at the same time, and this gives me the feeling that there is some slippage of the clutch before it completely grabs. Is this normal for a stock clutch setup to give some slippage between gears if you're hard on it?

thats what mine was doing. i changed the pressure plate and now you can shift with out leting off the throtle and it will not slip. i love it.

[Rczap]

Ok the mystery is solved, somehow air got in the slave cylinder. I had to bleed it twice but now it works fine. Cant wait to finish my work and try her out on the road!
 

[wolfraider]

Glad you fond it. Enjoy the ride!

[venom207]

I started with just Barnett heavy springs. I then went back in and did the Barnett friction plates as well. Wasn't a huge difference with just the springs, but once I added the plates it was a huge difference. I love it and would never consider going back. It feels so positive now.

[Motodad393]

I had TejasMotorsports do the Barnet Clutch mod quite awhile ago.  It was an EXCELLENT decision.  They ran the crank case bleed down though the frame and it avoids over-spray on the motor.  Most importantly with all the new torque (so it feels) I can pull the tire in 2nd and 3rd gear w/speed shift.  It is an awesome mod.  You will need to keep the air filters cleaner, but small sacrifice for the feel.  It is an awesome mod and Tejas does GREAT work.

Ride Safe MD393 

[Ares X]

What does the clutch upgrade have to do with over-spray and air filters?  Unless you're saying the increased performance causes the air filters to clog quicker. I can't say I get the over-spray at all.