Rear axle extension tool.

[umpire3]

For those of you who have V&H Big Radius exhaust or some other after market exhaust that forces you to remove the exhaust to get at the rear axle nut, here's a tool that should help.  The parts cost less than $15.

Parts:

• 1-1/2" (W) x 1/8" (T) x 7" (L) steel bar; Homedepot ~ $9.
• 1/2 in. drive 27mm deep wall impact socket; Harbor Freight.

Fab:

• Cut 1/4" off the hex end of the socket.
• Cut the next piece of the socket 3/4"* from the same end.
• Cut the steel bar 7" long.
• Orient the hex so that one of its sides is parallel with one of the square drive's sides.
• Mount the two halves 5" center-to-center at opposite ends and sides on the 7" steel bar.
• Weld.

* = Check the clearance between the nut/shaft and muffler you need in order to slip the socket end on the nut.
** = There isn't enough clearance between the stock mufflers and nut for this tool to work.

Operation:

• Mount the tool.
• Connect the torque wrench inline with the tool.
• Calculate the new torque required using the formula shown in the picture.

Or:

• Mount the tool.
• Connect the torque wrench 90* to the tool.
• Torque to the required specification - 110 ft/lbs.

[RoadStarRaider]

[Mr. T]

This is now a "sticky"   

[SCL#484]

Thanks for sharing! 

[xmanrigger]

Thanks umpire3. Definitely fabbin' one of these up first opportunity.

Now, what is the trick for the slack adjuster? I still have to remove rear mounting bolts and head bolts with V&H 2-1 to adjust them.

[CHROMINATOR]

Thanks umpire3. Definitely fabbin' one of these up first opportunity.

Now, what is the trick for the slack adjuster? I still have to remove rear mounting bolts and head bolts with V&H 2-1 to adjust them.

I just take off the heat shield and I can get to it without too much problem.

[umpire3]

Thanks umpire3. Definitely fabbin' one of these up first opportunity.

Now, what is the trick for the slack adjuster? I still have to remove rear mounting bolts and head bolts with V&H 2-1 to adjust them.

No tricks on the adjuster bolt or nut.  I just use a claw foot 12mm with a long extension.  Thought about:

• Bending an open end wrench on the long axis.
• Bending an open end wrench on the short axis.
• Drilling holes on the flats of the nut and bolt and use a dowel pin to turn and tighten then.

[RuneRaider]

Very cool ideas. Thanks!

[Zxdave]

Pretty cool idea ! I have v&h 2into1 also , before the air ride I would just have my 16yr old boy sit on bike and it compressed enuf to get to everything , but now with air-ride I can lower it down to get to stuff

[Tail dragger]

I just cut down a 12 mm open end wrench to 3 inches to give me clearance.  Don't have to do anything to loosen or tighten the axle bolt.

[xmanrigger]

Just wondering if anyone here actually torques the rear axle nut to 110 ft/lbs. I have a quality torque wrench, and 80 ft/lbs almost seems to much. I have never and will never tighten it to 110 ft/lbs, or even 100 ft/lbs. Never had an issue with the nut backing off.

[RonKy]

I have the V&H 2 into 1.  Before I lowered the bike, I just removed the rear skin.  Now I just lay a rag on the exhaust pipe and take the nut off with a ratchet.  Close fit but works fine.
Just ordered my 13th set of tires for the Raider and I have always torqued the wheels back to spec. 

[umpire3]

Just wondering if anyone here actually torques the rear axle nut to 110 ft/lbs. I have a quality torque wrench, and 80 ft/lbs almost seems to much. I have never and will never tighten it to 110 ft/lbs, or even 100 ft/lbs. Never had an issue with the nut backing off.

The purpose of torquing the nut to factory specs is: to collapse the dampers in the rear hub without breaking the webbing between each piece.

[xmanrigger]

Just wondering if anyone here actually torques the rear axle nut to 110 ft/lbs. I have a quality torque wrench, and 80 ft/lbs almost seems to much. I have never and will never tighten it to 110 ft/lbs, or even 100 ft/lbs. Never had an issue with the nut backing off.

The purpose of torquing the nut to factory specs is: to collapse the dampers in the rear hub without breaking the webbing between each piece.

Hmmm. But have you ever actually torqued to 110 ft/lbs? Like I said, I got to 80 lbs and that seemed way over tight. Not the top of the line torque wrench (Westward), but it is a fairly decent one, so I kinda trust it. Maybe today I will loosen the axle nut and tighten all the way to 110lbs.

[the urban legend]

I tighten to 110 ft/lbs every time I re-install the rear wheel.Yes it's tight,but that's what the manual says so that's what I do.

[RonKy]

Yep...same here.  110 ft. lbs. every time.