Author Topic: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable  (Read 3213 times)

LeaderDuece

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IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
« on: Aug 21, 2016, 03:05:24 pm »
I went to a Warrior style VBAK awhile back, and removed the stock airbox. This frustrated my IAC, since it has a sensor that hooks to the airbox. So I would literally have high idle. Kill the bike and restart: low idle. Kill it and restart: high idle. It was crazy. And obviously, just manually adjusting the idle wouldn't help. So I decided to remove the IAC.

The IAC is the octopus looking thing underneath the neck of the bike. It has two hoses that go to the throttle bodies (where it can add air) and a third hose going to the airbox (where it sucks air). It has an electrical connector as well -since it is in effect an electric air pump. (You can hear it running fairly easily when the bike is cold).

When you remove the IAC, you end up with no "choke." Fuel injected bikes don't really have a choke -where you can add fuel by pulling a knob connected to a carb. They have an IAC or similar device (on the Warrior it's called an LCV) -Thus, you will have to manually add a little fuel when the bike is cold since you took it off. Most of us do it anyway-we blip the throttle a few times as we get ready to roll. Within a minute of me leaving my house it's no longer an issue.

When you remove the IAC, you will have an electrical connector still there. No problem. Just tape it up, you won't get an error code.

You have two options when you remove it from the throttle bodies. You can actually cap the bodies off with vacuum caps (after you remove the hoses from the throttle bodies), or, you can leave the hoses on, and then plug the hoses. I chose to simply plug the hoses. It's not as pretty, but it was easier for me. I didn't have any caps at the time. I found some wood dowels that fit perfectly with a bit of work pushing them in (about the size of a pencil), cut off 1.5 inch pieces, and forced them into the hoses that were still attached to the throttle bodies. So now my bodies are airtight again. This is important. If you have an air-leak, your throttle may "search" or hesitate. Obviously I just pulled the other airline from the airbox, and left it on the IAC. I can replace the IAC in a matter of minutes if I wanted -another reason I went this way.

I have attached pics of these images of:

The bracket I made. It's just a piece of aluminum I got from from Home Depot. I bent it and polished it a bit. It's actually hard aluminum, so it polishes well and holds a polish.

The bracket with the cable attached. I'm sorry I don't know the part number for the cable. I'm sure someone can chime in on that. I bought it from Chilly on the forum.

The cable attached to the throttle body with the body both open and closed. This is so you can see the function. The cable screws in and out, and hits the throttle body stop. As you screw it in, the throttle body stop won't close all the way. Thus providing more air. When you get more air (the same function the IAC provides) the ECU senses this and provides more fuel.

The bracket mounted on top of the cylinder head. I love it here. No fumbling, no burning of fingers, and you really don't notice it. I used it to set my throttle -using my PCV software to read RPMs, then left it. Having said that, last week after riding about 2 hours it died on me at a stop light. I restarted the bike, reached down and upped the idle a bit. No more issues.

The left side cover with a CIB (with star) JB Welded to it. I actually like the left side cover, I just didn't like the stupid "Star" logo on it. Problem solved.

One pic of my current version of my VBAK. The rubber hoses I was using were too stiff, and didn't flex enough for mounting of the tank etc. I bought some 1 7/8 inch silicone ones with a 45 degree bend built in. They were so flexible I was able to turn the back one to face the front, thus missing the stupid fuel line nipple coming out of the bottom of the tank.

You can also see where I zip-tied my Stebel Air Horn. I also have this setup on my Warrior. It works great there. Never gets wet, still gets enough air, and you can still hear it very loudly. Obviously you have to do some work to make room for it. And, if you've never done an aftermarket air-horn, you MUST use a relay, or you'll burn up your horn wiring (or the button -I've done that) and then you're replacing all sorts of stuff. not worth it.

Hope this helps -and clears up some questions. Sorry I didn't take any pics of the IAC, but it's pretty obvious.

Edit: I resized all of these, but obviously it didn't work. I suggest "right clicking" on each picture, then choosing "Open in new tab" -this wll give you usable pictures.
« Last Edit: Aug 21, 2016, 03:07:53 pm by LeaderDuece »

RoadStarRaider

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    Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
    « Reply #1 on: Aug 21, 2016, 05:32:15 pm »
    5KM-14103-00-00 THROTTLE SCREW SET
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    LeaderDuece

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    Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
    « Reply #2 on: Aug 21, 2016, 05:35:17 pm »
    Perfect. Thanks.

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      Zxdave

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #3 on: Aug 21, 2016, 07:53:07 pm »
      Good write up with pics leader !!
      Lean till it grinds , then lean some more ..

      LeaderDuece

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #4 on: Aug 21, 2016, 08:06:14 pm »
      Thank you!

      PhysicsDude55

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #5 on: Aug 22, 2016, 09:23:37 pm »
      I really like your method of mounting the idle adjuster on the cylinder head.  Very clean and easy to adjust while riding.  Thumbs up, I'll have to order that cable and copycat you.
      260 Rear Tire, Freedom Curves exhaust, DIY BAK, DIY integrated turn signals, DIY sidemount plate.  More to come.

      LeaderDuece

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #6 on: Aug 22, 2016, 09:45:12 pm »
      Thank you!

      Lazaruslen13

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #7 on: Mar 27, 2019, 11:59:17 am »
      I know this a an old old topic. But can someone please explain what is needed or how to make a bracket to attach the listed  Grizzly cable 5KM-14103-00-00 to the top of the cylinder head. Perhaps even share some pics. I need to lower my idle a bit without the pain in the butt process I have currently. Thanks. I am not mechanically inclined.

      dreadly

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #8 on: Mar 27, 2019, 02:27:46 pm »
      I know this a an old old topic. But can someone please explain what is needed or how to make a bracket to attach the listed  Grizzly cable 5KM-14103-00-00 to the top of the cylinder head. Perhaps even share some pics. I need to lower my idle a bit without the pain in the butt process I have currently. Thanks. I am not mechanically inclined.

      The first post explains it, no?

      LeaderDuece

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #9 on: Mar 27, 2019, 02:37:14 pm »
      Ummm, yeah, it's just a piece of aluminum I bent and polished.

      mauleg0615

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #10 on: Mar 30, 2019, 07:55:11 am »
      Sorry I know this is an old topic but I am going to remove the IAC on my 09 raider. I already ordered the grizzly cable. I know the IAC is under the neck frame and I removed all 4 bolts holding the bracket but having a hell of a time pulling the IAC out!!! Any help on this? Also, these are the 3 hose lines from the IAC and the one directly being held with a zip tie to the frame is the electrical connection? They all are removed? Then plug the 2 lines? Thanks for any help on this. I'm just tired of the high idling!!!
      « Last Edit: Mar 30, 2019, 07:57:35 am by mauleg0615 »

      LeaderDuece

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #11 on: Mar 30, 2019, 08:50:57 am »
      Honestly I donít remember any issues with removing it, so Iím not much help there Iím afraid.

      Follow the two hoses from the IAC to the throttle bodies. Those are either removed from the IAC, left on the throttle bodies and plugged, or removed From the throttle bodies and the openings on the bodies are capped. Originally I left the hoses and plugged them. But last summer when I was making my D&D intake, I went ahead and removed them and capped the TBs. The main point here is that you donít want air getting into your TBs through those openings, or your engine will surge and run poorly.

      The third hose goes to the air box. Itís how the IAC gets air to direct into the TBs. you would just remove it from the air box and be done. However, itís hard to tell, but it looks like yours was already removed and a small filter placed on it - which leads me to believe your airbox is gone too? Which is fine, I took mine off years ago.

      Not sure how much help that was....

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #12 on: Jun 18, 2020, 01:28:30 am »
      When I had my Warrior, one of the first things I did was to toss the IAC. Now that I am new owner to the Raider I need to get rid of the IAC, would it be possible for someone to put a link up to this grizzly cable i need?

      Great write-up LD, I remember seeing posts from you all over the Warrior forums.


      Thanks in advance

      Kevs UK Raider SCL

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      Re: IAC Removal and Grizzly Cable
      « Reply #13 on: Jun 18, 2020, 01:43:30 pm »
      When I had my Warrior, one of the first things I did was to toss the IAC. Now that I am new owner to the Raider I need to get rid of the IAC, would it be possible for someone to put a link up to this grizzly cable i need?

      Great write-up LD, I remember seeing posts from you all over the Warrior forums.


      Thanks in advance

      5KM-14103-00-00 THROTTLE SCREW SET

      This is the part number for the cable you need
      One of only around 65 or so Raider Owners in the UK