Bad oil leak

[seventhLetter]

Unbelievable:  I finally found a shop that had good reviews, and they work on metric and American, and have reasonable prices.  So I decided to get the bike up and running this morning.  I flushed out the rear brake line as it was old and funky fluid in there!  aired up the tires, changed oil, etc.   

Rode over to the shop and they are permanently closed as of January 31.  The owner decided to get into something else.

Back to square 1.

Do I just ride and ignore the leak?  I don't want to be THAT guy.  I guess I could put an HD emblem on it somewhere.

[RoadStarRaider]

[Zxdave]

Unbelievable:  I finally found a shop that had good reviews, and they work on metric and American, and have reasonable prices.  So I decided to get the bike up and running this morning.  I flushed out the rear brake line as it was old and funky fluid in there!  aired up the tires, changed oil, etc.   

Rode over to the shop and they are permanently closed as of January 31.  The owner decided to get into something else.

Back to square 1.

Do I just ride and ignore the leak?  I don't want to be THAT guy.  I guess I could put an HD emblem on it somewhere.

I would try to find it bro , how we ride anything getting on rear tire is never a good idea !
But if not I vote to definitely put HD emblems on it ! Lmao

[seventhLetter]

So interesting thing:

This morning I decided it's damn time to find that leak.  I had cleaned the underside of the bike off really well the other day, and it looks like there is residue around the lower fitting of the lower oil pipe. (The 2 that run parallel to each other).

Originally that's where I thought it was, and I replaced both o-rings on both oil pipes.  Leak continued.  So I took it to Nick and he pulled the motor and replaced all 4 of those, plus the ones on the hard line that is behind the frame and he replaced the strainers as well.  Through no fault of his, the leak continues.

He mentioned maybe there is something wrong with one of the oil pipes, like a micro hole or irregularity in the surface.

So I'm going to replace at least the lower oil pipe, maybe both.

Here's my question:  If that STILL doesn't stop the leak (and like I said, it appears to be coming from the lower fitting of the lower pipe), is there a heat tolerant silicone I could use around the fitting?  Hell if there is, I might just jump straight to that for now just to confirm that's where the leak actually is.

Any suggestions on a heat tolerant silicone?

Thanks guys for helping out a non-mechanic!

[seventhLetter]

Also, I know you're probably thinking about that I said it didn't look like oil.  I just don't know at this point.  I couldn't find any residue around any fittings for the rear brake line or clutch line.  And no residue along the lines anywhere.  So I'm back to looking for it being oil and that lower oil pipe has a lot of wet residue around its fitting.

[ROADKILL]

Also, I know you're probably thinking about that I said it didn't look like oil.  I just don't know at this point.  I couldn't find any residue around any fittings for the rear brake line or clutch line.  And no residue along the lines anywhere.  So I'm back to looking for it being oil and that lower oil pipe has a lot of wet residue around its fitting.

JB Weld automotive https://www.jbweld.com/project-category/automotive

[StrykerBilly]

Also, I know you're probably thinking about that I said it didn't look like oil.  I just don't know at this point.  I couldn't find any residue around any fittings for the rear brake line or clutch line.  And no residue along the lines anywhere.  So I'm back to looking for it being oil and that lower oil pipe has a lot of wet residue around its fitting.

Before just throwing parts at it out of frustration(and I totally get that) get some oil leak dye and a blacklight.  Clean it up really good, add the dye and go for a short ride just to get to operating temp.  Come home and look at the area in a darkened garage with the light.  If the oil is leaking it'll be fairly obvious with the light!!  If nothing shows up, let it sit for a day and check again.

Note:  If it has smeared etc. due to riding, wait for the bike to cool down and then wipe it good and look again.  Depending on the area you might be able to do this while still warm.
Good luck.  Small leaks can be a PITA and especially here if you need lift and/or pull the engine.

[dukedomain]

I just read this thread, I swear I thought I was on the Roadglide forum.

[seventhLetter]

So I used some degreaser made for motors and sprayed all around those areas and hosed it off a few days ago.  It has been sitting in the garage.  Checked it tonight and there is more fluid on the garage floor.  However, this time, I can tell you, I really don't think it is brake fluid.  It's thick and oily, and clear, almost amber colored.   It does look like it's coming from that lower oil pipe flange, but I think that's just because it pools there before heading on down to the underside before dripping off - When I change oil it's always much darker than this fluid, so...

Maybe gear oil?  If so, any idea where that could be leaking from? 

[seventhLetter]

I just read this thread, I swear I thought I was on the Roadglide forum.

I hear you...but this has frustrated me more than you know.  I have practically stopped riding for the last 2 years completely.  I'm not in the market for a new bike and just want to get this one back in shape. 

This leak is a major problem, and I don't know enough to solve it myself, and unfortunately, I've not found anyone or any shop that can do it either!

[Sgt Fury]

I agree on trying the dye additive in your oil crankcase.  I used it over the years for chasing oil, antifreeze or freon leaks (different dyes, of course.)  This sounds very frustrating for sure.  You can get these little one ounce bottles at Carquest, Advance Auto, NAPA, etc.  The "multi-purpose" type dye can be used in motor oil, brake fluid, power steering pumps, etc.  My current "total dye" bottle I have says to put 1/4 oz in per quart of oil---so in our 5 qt Raiders, I'd just dump the whole 1 oz bottle in the bike oil tank and run it to operating temperature for a bit.  Clean the suspect area up and watch once more. You can buy a cheapo UV penlight from Harbor Freight (maybe) or an auto parts store for sure. 

I assume there is not any oil seeping out of the vertical pushrod tubes?  Total wild comment there.  Hopefully, the culprit will show with the dye AND will not require any major labor to fix.  Good luck!   

[Dirtiegirtie]

Seven - I think you are downplaying your mechanical abilities if you are able to flush and bleed your rear brake line without issue, so I have no doubt you'll figure this one out!

You mentioned the fluid is lighter than the oil usually looks. New oil is pretty clear, especially if you are comparing it to the oil that comes out after 2k or 10k miles (or whenever you change yours).
1. I'm assuming you just changed your oil?
 - If you've changed it in the last 100 miles then I would expect the oil to still be pretty clear.
2. If yes, did you change the oil? Or did you have the shop change it?
 - I doubt this is the issue, but I'll throw this out there... I was just looking up how to properly change the oil in my Raider and the first thread that came up was this one. It mentions a third drain plug that mysteriously started to leak after changing the oil via the front two drain plugs only. Might be something to look into?
https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=69457.0

I'm probably the 5'th person to say it but I will anyways; leak detection dye is probably the way to go. If you are not familiar with it here is a pdf to read. You'll see it is really easy to use:
https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/13649_instructions.pdf

The only other method I've had success with is to clean the bike really well, and then wipe her arse! What I mean is, use toilet paper and slowly run it around the suspect fittings (the cheaper the toilet paper, the better!). The toilet paper absorbs the oil when you get to the leak. It's no where near as good a method as the dye, but if you feel pretty certain you know where it is coming from (the oil pipe entering the case) then dab above it and then dab below it. If it's not wet anywhere around that spot then that's not the issue.

[ROADKILL]

Seven - I think you are downplaying your mechanical abilities if you are able to flush and bleed your rear brake line without issue, so I have no doubt you'll figure this one out!

You mentioned the fluid is lighter than the oil usually looks. New oil is pretty clear, especially if you are comparing it to the oil that comes out after 2k or 10k miles (or whenever you change yours).
1. I'm assuming you just changed your oil?
 - If you've changed it in the last 100 miles then I would expect the oil to still be pretty clear.
2. If yes, did you change the oil? Or did you have the shop change it?
 - I doubt this is the issue, but I'll throw this out there... I was just looking up how to properly change the oil in my Raider and the first thread that came up was this one. It mentions a third drain plug that mysteriously started to leak after changing the oil via the front two drain plugs only. Might be something to look into?
https://www.roadstarraider.com/index.php?topic=69457.0

I'm probably the 5'th person to say it but I will anyways; leak detection dye is probably the way to go. If you are not familiar with it here is a pdf to read. You'll see it is really easy to use:
https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/13649_instructions.pdf

The only other method I've had success with is to clean the bike really well, and then wipe her arse! What I mean is, use toilet paper and slowly run it around the suspect fittings (the cheaper the toilet paper, the better!). The toilet paper absorbs the oil when you get to the leak. It's no where near as good a method as the dye, but if you feel pretty certain you know where it is coming from (the oil pipe entering the case) then dab above it and then dab below it. If it's not wet anywhere around that spot then that's not the issue.

There have been a couple of instances where people didn't pull the third drain plug that drains the oil tank and when they refilled the oil they over filled.

[seventhLetter]

Thanks Dirtiegirtie!  My mechanical abilities are only as good as the advice I get or posts I read.  I have almost zero practical experience.  I did change out my clutch years ago to a Barnett kit...only because I was able to read a post here on RSR about it. 

At this point, I'm accepting all ideas and suggestions.  I do all my own oil changes and always always pull all 3 plugs and the filter, and I always replace with new filter and new crush washers on the plugs. Also, the last oil change was done by Nick Easterday when I rode my bike up to him overnight from Tennessee and he pulled the motor to replace all the o-rings and strainers, etc. in the motor oil pathways.  So I have to assume he did the oil change properly. (I actually have no doubt.)

I suppose there is a possibility it might still be oil, I'm definitely not ruling that out, I'm just noticing different consistency (I think).  Anyway, Nick Easterday also suggested using dye or a colored gear oil in the secondary so I can rule that out (or pinpoint it, if the leak changes color).  Going to do that hopefully this weekend.  I'm kind of over this whole issue, but also mildly excited to get one step closer to solving it by tinkering in the garage a bit.

At the end of the day, I'm just really ready to ride again.  I've been pretty depressed about it!

Thanks

[seventhLetter]

Hey everyone - I could not find any colored gear oil around here, so I decided to buy the UV dye and add it to the motor oil that way I could pinpoint it as motor oil or rule it out.  Went for about a 15 mile ride and got back home.  Let it sit for a few minutes then brought out the UV light and amber goggles.   

Definitely motor oil.  I have about 1,000 miles on that oil so I thought it would be a little darker and grittier...apparently I don't know the difference between the different types of fluids. Except I knew it wasn't brake fluid! haha

Thank you for bearing with me.  Now I know WHERE and WHAT it is, I just need to fix it.  I've already replaced the o-rings on that pipe (it was the first thing I did)...then Nick at OCD also replaced it again, so it might be the pipe itself, or could be the recessed area in the case that it goes into.  Something is off...so I'm going to replace the pipe and drop in a little thicker o-ring.

FINGERS CROSSED.

[dukedomain]

Cool.  It looks like a Small Magellanic Cloud.