So I just finished my Freedom Performance Sharp Curve pipes install today!
Some things I learned;
CRITICAL! TAPE OFF all painted surfaces where the pipes may hit/scrape the bike and tape over the pipes heat shields or you risk scratching them. Use blue painters tape.
*The instructions from Freedom Performance are absolute CRAP!
*Tips in this forum tend to oversimplify how difficult these are to mount.
*The 1" aluminum spacers that came with my kit were NOT for mounting onto the pipes mounting bracket, they are for use if you own a Yamaha Stratoliner and they are for bringing out the right side floorboard with that bikes install, not the Raiders.
*Even though some on the forums said you don't have to splice the O2 sensor wires so they're longer I DEFINITELY had to splice mine to fit. I did mine 5 inches longer just to make sure it wasn't tight. Use silver wire in 18 Gauge (not copper). Silver is more conductive and matches what is used in the stock 02 sensor wires.
*The 02 Sensor is EXTREMELY hard to unplug at the battery end if you don't realize the plastic 'tab' that releases it is not at the top of the connection, but rather is on the left side (side facing right side of bike) as you look at it from top.
*The small fuse box above where the 02 Sensor plugs in can be removed by sliding it up off it's mounting (you have to remove this to get access to where the 02 plugs into.
*Since this mounts to the bike 1) At first engine jug, 2) At second engine jug 3) Both headers into baffle with 2 pipe clamps 4) baffle/rear pipe onto mounting plate wt 4 bolts 5) mounting plate to motorcycle frame wt 2 bolts ALL mounting points need to be loosely tightened so they can be aligned to fit properly.
*You can safely tighten the 4 mounting bolts that hold the rear baffle/pipes onto the mounting plate, leaving all other fasteners lose for alignment adjustments
*Ideally, you have a helper who holds the loosely assembled pipes into baffles assembly into place as you press the first engine jug header pipe into place (replace the crush washer with new to ensure no air leaks) and screw on the nuts. If you have no helper, use bungie cords to hold the pipe in place without having to fasten the bolts tight.
*Next to fasten is the rear engine jug header (loosely)
*You may need to slide the two header pipes into or out of the baffle some to line the baffle up properly (loosen pipe clamps) with the rear mounting plate holes so the bolts (use stock from stock pipe bracket) slide in properly.
* Tighten the front and rear engine jug header bolts when you're confident the entire assembly is aligned, then tighten the pipe mounting bracket, then the pipe clamps.
*IMPORTANT: Note that the heat shields have two sizes of pipe clamps provided, a smaller size for the front of the pipes and the larger ones for the rear of the pipes. Look at the pipes diameter where the clamps go into the heat shields to help determine where the smaller clamps go (I believe it's two small forward, 2 large rearward from memory).
*IMPORTANT: Decide how you want the heat shield clamps fastener oriented before you slide it into/onto the heat shields. The goal is to have them so they are hidden behind the heat shields, yet are accessible for tightening. These have a slit in the top of the tightening bolt so you have the option of mounting them with that slit facing the ground so a standard screw driver can be used to tighten. I found the one in the middle most part of the top pipe needed to face down as there was no other way to turn it except for by screw driver and facing upside down is best to both hide it from view and have screwdriver access from underneath for tightening.
Be prepared with these new pipes to now expose your aluminum painted rear foot brake workings just along the right bottom frame along with the shiny heat wrap covering the brake hoses. I think you might get away with spray painting the heat wrap with high heat black engine paint to hide it, or cut off the shiny wrap and replace it with black pipe wrap. I devised an aluminum metal pipe I cut the back out of and tie-wrapped over the hoses and painted black. I just sprayed the aluminum brake hydraulics housing with high heat black paint and it looks much better.
It's very important not to allow a leak at the engine header connections as cold air entering there can harm you engine. It will also cause back firing so make sure to re-check the bolt tightness now and then on those bolts. Use a torque wrench if you can get one in there (I couldn't).
