Fuel pump

[woodog]

Anyone needing a new OEM pump....PM me....

[RoadStarRaider]

[Fiddles]

 Its that for the complete assembly?

[woodog]

Its that for the complete assembly?

Complete...

[RuneRaider]

Interested as I might need to restore my fuel system. I really need to get old girl fired back up again. Guilty as charged.

[Silver Bullet]

I think my new (to me) 08 9kmi has the cracked fuel pump.
1. Would you reccomend doing the repair or just getting a new pump? (seems like a new pump housing would fail the same just a matter of time?)
2. I saw drilling the ends of the crack before sealing/welding would be a good idea?
3. Have the folks had to touch up the repair after a period of time and how long?

Which is it? The fuel pump or the fuel pump housing. The fuel pump is relatively cheap to replace but the housing is expensive. Many have tried to repair the housing but it doesn't last very long, and eventually it needs replacing.

I had mine replaced right before my warranty ran out.  This week its cut off on me twice when pulling up to red lights and started sputtering and popping more.  I am guessing the new one is failing now.

[A.T.]

I think my new (to me) 08 9kmi has the cracked fuel pump.
1. Would you reccomend doing the repair or just getting a new pump? (seems like a new pump housing would fail the same just a matter of time?)
2. I saw drilling the ends of the crack before sealing/welding would be a good idea?
3. Have the folks had to touch up the repair after a period of time and how long?

Which is it? The fuel pump or the fuel pump housing. The fuel pump is relatively cheap to replace but the housing is expensive. Many have tried to repair the housing but it doesn't last very long, and eventually it needs replacing.

I had mine replaced right before my warranty ran out.  This week its cut off on me twice when pulling up to red lights and started sputtering and popping more.  I am guessing the new one is failing now.

How many miles on the replacement pump?   

[Coldfinger]

I am passing along information which might help repair cracked fuel housings.

Here is bonding material information from my recent discussions with J-B Weld/Fiber Fix.

I was repairing a cracked tank filler neck on my snowmobile and asked J-B and Fiber Fix what they would recommend.  I learned from the Fiber Fix reply that they are essentially the same company and he recommended the J-B Weld for the snowmobile tank repair.

Here is a summary of what they said:  J-B Weld Plastic Bonder would be the best product for repairing the snowmobile tank filler neck.
That is the product I used but didn't get a chance to see how well it might work if allowed to cure more than a few hours because it was a quick fix and then exposed to sub-freezing temps for days.  I dropped the sled off at dealer after I was done riding and the factory is paying to replace the defective tank.

Then I asked about using Fiber Fix (Flex Patch or Rigid Patch) for repairing a fuel pump housing submerged in fuel and they said:
In regards to fuel resistance, we have not tested the Flex Patch on it. I would imagine the Rigid Patch would hold up better against fuel than the Flex Patch, but again if the plastic housing flexes a lot then you'll want the Flex Patch instead.

My thoughts -
I don't know how much the housing flexes.  I would suspect a little, and probably flexes more if the sub-tank is running low because there is less fuel on outside of housing, ie, less pressure on outside of housing.  If previously stated observations are correct, people tend to experience cracked housings at a higher rate if they regularly run with the low fuel light on.

If I have to repair a crack in my housing, first thing I might do is test the J-B Weld plastic bonder for fuel resistance.  Mainly because I already have some and it will not cost anything.   If it is fuel resistant, I think I would apply some, let it dry, sand it, then apply some more and place a section of aluminum screen material on or around (if possible) and apply some more and let it cure.

If that doesn't work, I would test the Fiber Fix Rigid Patch for fuel resistance, and if it is, then use that.  Especially if one can wrap the pump housing rather than applying only a patch.

If one thinks there is or will be flexing of the repair area even after the repair, the Fiber Fix Flex Patch would be my choice.

[Fasttimez]

I am passing along information which might help repair cracked fuel housings.

Here is bonding material information from my recent discussions with J-B Weld/Fiber Fix.

I was repairing a cracked tank filler neck on my snowmobile and asked J-B and Fiber Fix what they would recommend.  I learned from the Fiber Fix reply that they are essentially the same company and he recommended the J-B Weld for the snowmobile tank repair.

Here is a summary of what they said:  J-B Weld Plastic Bonder would be the best product for repairing the snowmobile tank filler neck.
That is the product I used but didn't get a chance to see how well it might work if allowed to cure more than a few hours because it was a quick fix and then exposed to sub-freezing temps for days.  I dropped the sled off at dealer after I was done riding and the factory is paying to replace the defective tank.

Then I asked about using Fiber Fix (Flex Patch or Rigid Patch) for repairing a fuel pump housing submerged in fuel and they said:
In regards to fuel resistance, we have not tested the Flex Patch on it. I would imagine the Rigid Patch would hold up better against fuel than the Flex Patch, but again if the plastic housing flexes a lot then you'll want the Flex Patch instead.

My thoughts -
I don't know how much the housing flexes.  I would suspect a little, and probably flexes more if the sub-tank is running low because there is less fuel on outside of housing, ie, less pressure on outside of housing.  If previously stated observations are correct, people tend to experience cracked housings at a higher rate if they regularly run with the low fuel light on.

If I have to repair a crack in my housing, first thing I might do is test the J-B Weld plastic bonder for fuel resistance.  Mainly because I already have some and it will not cost anything.   If it is fuel resistant, I think I would apply some, let it dry, sand it, then apply some more and place a section of aluminum screen material on or around (if possible) and apply some more and let it cure.

If that doesn't work, I would test the Fiber Fix Rigid Patch for fuel resistance, and if it is, then use that.  Especially if one can wrap the pump housing rather than applying only a patch.

If one thinks there is or will be flexing of the repair area even after the repair, the Fiber Fix Flex Patch would be my choice.

The problem with any of the plastic bond/repair materials that are designed for fuel, is that they aren't designed to withstand constant pressure.  Sure a material designed to repair a gas tank will hold up well to the static weight of the gasoline in the tank, but when you throw a constant 40+ PSI of pressure to it, it won't last long.  I tried every type of plastic repair/bonding agent to fix mine.  They all lasted about 500-1000 miles before the pressure blew a hole right through it.  The best fix I tried was using another piece of plastic (cut from an old gas jug) & bonding it over the area that was cracked.  But it still failed.....my advice is, if you have a cracked housing just go ahead & save yourself the time & get a good used one or a new one.   

[marcelmot]

Just "out of the box" thinking :

what if we put 2 or 3 metal ring clamps, over the plastic body of the fuel pump assy ..... as a preventive action ??

[Fasttimez]

Just "out of the box" thinking :

what if we put 2 or 3 metal ring clamps, over the plastic body of the fuel pump assy ..... as a preventive action ??

I cut open my old cracked pump body.  It's a manufacturing flaw......where it cracked, the material on the inside of the cracked spot was noticeably thinner than anywhere else on the pump body.  Using clamps I doubt would prevent it from eventually happening due to this.  But it's certainly not gonna hurt either.  When I did my first repair, I actually used about 6 metal zip ties, but it didn't hold.  It blew right thru the repaired area anyway.  The pump fits VERY tight into the sub tank, I doubt you could get the pump back in the tank because of the clearance issues from the screw part of the clamp.  I barely was able to fit the pump back in with the zip tie ends protruding the little amount.   

[ROADKILL]

The only good thing about the fuel pump is they are now less than $500 - found them @ Partzilla for $476.00

[woodog]

The only good thing about the fuel pump is they are now less than $500 - found them @ Partzilla for $476.00

I can get OEM brand new Fuel pumps in box for 350 plus shipping

[FireNative]

The only good thing about the fuel pump is they are now less than $500 - found them @ Partzilla for $476.00

From where? Web site link please.








I can get OEM brand new Fuel pumps in box for 350 plus shipping

[ROADKILL]

The only good thing about the fuel pump is they are now less than $500 - found them @ Partzilla for $476.00

From where? Web site link please.








I can get OEM brand new Fuel pumps in box for 350 plus shipping

He has connections

[the urban legend]

I have a fix for this issue. It doesn't involve patching up anything. I wasn't able to test it out on the road before winter came,but it works perfectly in the shed.

On January 2nd,I finished creating a full how-to write up with pictures and everything. I was about to post it but my 37 day old HP PC decided to crap out big time. Among other issues,the document was impossible to open,I couldn't move it to any other folder,creating a backup copy was impossible... I soon realized that the same illness afflicted my pictures and my music. Every day for weeks I tried to move the document to an external storage device. I also tried opening it,hoping that maybe I could take screenshots and save those somehow.  One time I clicked on the document and let the PC run while I was away. 26 hours later it was still working on it. I finally gave in and called tech support. First they tried a few tests but everything was normal. Then they reset my PC to factory condition...deleting all of my files in the process. And you know what? The damn PC still ran like crap. I had a good 30 hours of work in that How-to;writing,cropping and adding text to pictures,putting everything together so it was clear and made sense,proof reading,modifying... I just haven't had the heart to do it all over again.

 The PC is currently at the HP service center. It's been a week and I haven't heard back from them yet. Honestly,I don't even want to see it anymore. Unfortunately warranty policy states that they will fix it and send it back. But let me tell you,if I hadn't coughed up $800 for the damn thing I'd be making one of those "object VS 20 ton press" videos as soon as I got it back.