Stock shifter rod has a stop nut on each end. They use a 12 millimeter open end wrench. One is normal right hand thread and one is left hand thread. Loosen both nuts and back them away from the rod. The stock rod has a pair of flat spots where you can turn it with a 10 millimeter open end wrench. You should use the 10 mm to hold the rod when you loosen the stop nuts. Spin the rod and you can see the shifter lever move, so just set it for the height that works with your new boots, and tighten the stop nuts. Once you find your tools the entire procedure should take about 2 minutes. NOTHING needs to be removed, just loosen, adjust, tighten. Ride. Repeat if necessary.
I just put my PLS 3" extensions on and the whole thing took about a half hour, but only because one of the bolt holes in the aluminum frame tried to cross thread for the brake side bracket. I caught it in time and had to dig up my tap and chase the threads, and the half hour included tool chasing and putting away. This kit replaced the entire shifting rod instead of adding an extension, and it's black so it looks good, but it doesn't have the flats so you can only hold it by hand to loosen or tighten the stop nuts. One neat thing they did was machine a shallow groove on the end with left hand threads so you know which way to turn the stop nuts. One not so neat thing was the brake side is just an extension, and it appears to be stainless steel. The factory brake rod is aluminum so I'm concerned about the stainless and aluminum over time. Electrolysis can eat the aluminum away and destroy the threads. I guess the rod can't be THAT expensive. I'll just have to check 2-3 times a season.
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